Choosing a Tannoy Ribbon Microphone

Tannoy is best known for loudspeakers and public address equipment. Most Tannoy ribbon microphones you will find today are older units sold second-hand. Model, age and condition vary from one unit to the next, so choosing one is mostly about three things: confirming what you are buying, checking that your recording chain can work with it, and testing that the ribbon element is healthy.

Before you start

The microphone itself needs no account, app or online service. Everything in this guide happens locally, between the microphone, your preamp or audio interface, and your computer. If you plan to use the microphone in a video call or a cloud recording tool, that software may process or store your audio on its own servers. Check that tool's privacy and file handling documentation rather than assuming how it behaves.

• Gather the following before you buy or connect anything:
• The exact model name or label printed on the microphone, plus clear photos of the connector and any switches.
• The connector type and output impedance. Older units may not use a standard XLR plug and can need an adapter or a matching transformer.
• A preamp or audio interface with plenty of clean gain. Passive ribbon microphones have low output.
• A way to switch phantom power off on the input you will use.
• A stable stand or shock mount, and a pop filter.

Step-by-step instructions

• 1. Identify the unit. Ask the seller for the model, any service history, and whether the ribbon has been replaced. A re-ribboned microphone can sound different from an original one, so a replacement ribbon is a fact to weigh, not a defect.
• 2. Check the pickup pattern. Most passive ribbon microphones are figure-8: they pick up from the front and the back and reject sound from the sides. In a noisy or echoey room, the rear side will also capture background noise, so decide whether that pattern suits your space.
• 3. Plan the connection. Match the connector and impedance to your interface using a proper adapter or transformer. Do not improvise wiring. A wiring fault combined with phantom power can damage a ribbon.
• 4. Turn phantom power off before you plug in. Leave it off unless documentation for that specific model says otherwise. Set the gain to minimum, then connect.
• 5. In your operating system or app, choose the audio interface as the input device. Choose your headphones as the output device so you can monitor without feedback.
• 6. Set the sample rate on the interface, and use the same rate in your recording or call app. 48 kHz is a common choice for video work. Keeping the two rates matched matters more than the exact value.
• 7. Raise the input level slowly while you speak at your normal distance. Leave clear headroom below clipping. Close placement boosts bass through the proximity effect, so move back if the voice sounds boomy.
• 8. Write down your original settings so you can restore them if needed.

Setting names and menus differ between operating systems, app versions and interfaces. Treat the steps above as a description of what to look for, and use the labels in your own software.

Check the output

Record a short test that includes normal speech and a few seconds of silence. Play it back on headphones and listen for the following.

• Level: peaks should reach a healthy level without clipping. If you need the gain at its absolute maximum, expect more preamp hiss.
• Both sides: on a figure-8 ribbon, speaking into the front and then the back should give a comparable level. A side that is clearly weaker or distorted needs investigation.
• Rattle, buzz, crackle or a very thin sound: these can indicate a damaged, stretched or loose ribbon. Stop using the microphone and have it inspected.
• Hum: this usually comes from cabling, grounding, or a nearby power supply or transformer.
• Background noise: listen to the silent section to judge how much of the room the microphone picks up.

Many video call apps apply their own noise suppression and automatic gain. Other participants may therefore hear something different from your local recording. To check what they hear, use the app's built-in audio test, or record a test call with the other person's consent.

Common problems and next steps

• Very quiet signal: some quietness is normal for passive ribbons. Use an interface with more clean gain, or an inline preamp designed for passive microphones. Also check for an impedance mismatch in your adapter or cable.
• Muddy or distorted voice: you are probably too close, or plosives are hitting the ribbon. Add a pop filter, move back, or angle the microphone slightly off-axis.
• Too much room sound: point the rear side toward a quiet or soft-furnished area. Alternatively, turn the dead sides of the figure-8 toward the main noise source.
• App does not show the microphone: apps see the audio interface, not the microphone. Select the interface as the input device, and check that the operating system allows the app to use the microphone.
• Phantom power was switched on by mistake: switch it off and disconnect the microphone. If the sound has changed, have the ribbon checked before further use.
• Unsure whether the unit is worth the price: add the possible cost of re-ribboning and adapters to the asking price. Ask for a sound sample or a return option before you commit.

Once the microphone passes your checks, keep the ribbon protected between sessions. Cover it, keep it away from drafts and strong magnets, and store it upright, as is commonly advised for ribbon microphones.